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Entries

Maize, Blue and Beard

When I received word that I’d been cleared to attend the 2011 James Beard Awards, I had to sit down and compose myself.  Like the rest of you, I’ve been overspending my paychecks on good food and [...]

Bon Jour, Marie!

Canada. I know a few things about this place, this country that shares our border and in many ways, our sensibilities.  Canada knows hockey.  Canada’s citizens have free health care.  Canada’s [...]

Ode to the Michaels

The next day, we woke early to meet Michael Terrien, a contact sent my way through an old HarperCollins author named Michael Sanders.  Terrien had assisted Sanders on his wine books, and was a [...]

Ooooh, Luuuuuccccy!

Ever wake up on a vineyard?  Me neither.  Well, until a couple of weeks ago.  I won’t lie; it didn’t suck.  Sleep in my eyes, my country house bed was super-duper-comfortable, but I just couldn’t [...]

Hello, Wine Country!

California Wine Country.  Those three little words have been elusive for decades.  Well, the two decades during which I’ve been legal.  Once I ditched my dream of moving to San Francisco [...]

FIFA on the FDR

A wonderful thing happened on the way up the FDR… Once upon a sleep evading night circa 2 or 3 AM, I made a whole bunch of workout mixes on my iPod.  Thing is, I usually don’t make it down to [...]

Meet, Plan, Go!

When I first met with Sherry Ott and Michaela Potter of Briefcase to Backpack earlier this year, they were toying with the idea of hosting a night in San Francisco and New York that explored [...]

Sun, Sand, Israelis

A rainbow of blues—marine, turquoise, sea foam, sky, and royal—undulate gently to meet the reef.  Defunct rowboats idle along shore.  A concentration of tin-roofed houses opens onto vibrant [...]

Stylin’ on Safari

Accompanied by the three babus, Sam (babu Thomas’s son), and Sandy, we head off to Tarangire National Park.  Guides Dennis and Rajai will transport us, and in Rajai’s Rover we speed over some of [...]

Maasai for Money

As we pull onto the long dirt road leading to the village, a haze of dust kicking up in our wake, Sandy is dismayed.  Uh-oh.  I’ve only seen Sandy dismayed once before, on Kilimanjaro, and it [...]

The Kili Diaries: Day 5

Day Five: Karanga Camp to Barafu Camp Hike: 2 miles Altitude: 13, 105 feet to 15, 331 feet Oh what a beautiful morning.  Oh what a beautiful day.  Finally.  Darryl gives my face the once over and [...]

Eve*

Darryl met her on the corner of Flying Kites Road while I was exchanging dollars into shillings at the local bank.  She was dressed in a red and white checked skirt and navy blue sweater – a [...]

A Njabini Sunrise

We’re here!  Africa.  Well, Kenya to start.  At first glance, it reminds me of India: abject poverty, haphazardly placed bundled garbage, potholes, unrecycled plastic, roaming goats, cows, and [...]

Bring On Africa!

I’ve done this already.  Multiple times.  And yet, the mixed feelings inevitably come.  Kenya, Tanzania, and Mount Kilimanjaro loom large on my horizon, but I’m torn on leaving a very settled New [...]

Ready, Set…Byline!

I hadn’t done the solo travel thing since last year’s trip to Mexico when I left my very worried mother (“Honey, they have DRUG WARS here.”) in a cab to the airport as I hopped a bus from Puerto [...]

Swimming with Sharks

Flying into Tahiti for my transfer to Bora Bora couldn’t have been a more anticipated arrival. The South Pacific was full of gems, but Bora Bora was the crown jewel and I absolutely couldn’t wait [...]

Mr. and Mrs. Smith

Leaving Wellington in the wind, I began my northern climb toward Auckland, where I’d fly out on March 1st to Fiji. Dependent on buses, opting not to further push my automotive luck, it felt good [...]

5, 4, 3, 2…

New Zealand. Wow. Wow. Wow. I know that seems an elementary description, but there’s no way that I can adequately do written justice to the plentiful natural beauty of New Zealand. Sure, I’ve [...]

Tennis for Tourists

Melbourne, Australia. Once the capital before it was moved to Canberra, Melbourne is a world city in its own right. No, it’s not as pretty as Sydney, it’s not as hot as Cairns, it’s not as [...]

Simon Says…

At 7:20 AM, Sarah and I awoke startled as my phone rang. Simon the Stranger. Downstairs. “You don’t have a big bag, right? I’ve got my bike in the back.” Uh, now you tell me…? Scraping the last [...]

Sydney, City Redefined

Continuing from where we left off post-New Years, my days in Sydney have been nothing short of thrilling. Taking the ferry from Sarah’s flat in Abbotsford (a suburb) each morning was divine. I’m [...]

Parisian Yin and Yang

Lisbon was followed by Lagos, a southern ocean town in the Algarve that offered much less frenzied a pace than the northern city of my flight lessons. It was breathtakingly beautiful, rocky [...]

(Re)Seeing Spain

Madrid. I’ve been here before. It’s semi-familiar, but I feel as if I’ve grown so much since that trip that I’m seeing Madrid through new eyes. Now that I have the knowledge to actually compare [...]

Romancing Cartagena…

If I liked Bogota, Cartagena astounded me. It was a Technicolor odyssey of architectural sights, set inside a fairy-tale-like wall that surrounded the city like a fort. Well, it WAS a fortress [...]

Marie and Chavez, BFF

I guess I had a right to be worried… How does one compare of week of jet-setting amongst fabulous friends; three cities, five days, countless faces, places, and spaces to a rainy Panama? One [...]

Ecuador, Round 2

The past week is a total blur…Living life, Ecuadorian style, takes stamina. At least the way I was living it!This was Ecuador, Round 2. From the plane, I was whisked to Sake, a restaurant ala [...]

The Magnificent Maldives

I can now die happy. The Maldives are all that and more. The most AMAZING place I’ve ever been, beach-wise. They are what, in my ‘suspending-non-religious-beliefs-for-just-a-moment’ reality, I [...]

Sigh…India.

Everyone warned me not to go to Varanasi, the most religious city in India, the spiritual soul of the country. As you may have heard on the news (I’ve gotten many emails making sure I was [...]

My Porter, The Hero

At some point, it was bound to happen, I guess….My awful, awful experience in India. So, here goes. Being a woman here just sucks. Everyone warned me on taking trains, but in the same breath, [...]

Mumbai: The Soundtrack

So, I’m sitting in my hotel room in Mumbai as I write this, The Gordon House, a charming little boutique hotel in Colaba, the downtown area of Mumbai, which is constantly jumping. Street bazaars, [...]

Bananas about Bananas

I’m in INDIA. That, to me, blows my mind. I don’t think at any point in my life did I ever think I’d be visiting INDIA. And yet, here I am. I know so little about Indian culture, that I’m awed by [...]

Cambodia

The New York Times published a travel piece about a week or so ago called “Why is everyone going to Cambodia?” (or similar…) I wound up reading it out here and found myself enormously pissed [...]

Biking Laos

Luang Prabang is giving Hoi An a run for it’s money as my favorite city thus far. There’s a tranquility and peacefulness here, a pace of relaxation that envelops you the second you land in this [...]

The art of Sangsom

Chiang Mai is a city that is getting it’s share of air time in the world right now. Any trip to Thailand seems no longer SOLELY about the islands, but also a trip north to Chiang Mai and the [...]

Ummm…Water Puppets???

After Hue, I was curious to see what Hanoi could possibly offer . . . Thinking on it, it’s amazing how much of Vietnam I’ve seen in the last few weeks. I don’t know that I thought I’d see so much [...]

Long/Luong/Loong

It’s funny how when you expect the worst, you always wind up surprising yourself and having a blast. For me, that was what Hue was all about. I arrived into Hue after sleeping late in Hoi An to [...]

Niagara WHAT?

The road from Punta del Este led to Iguazu Falls, the 300+ waterfalls that border three countries: Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay. I took the bus from the fantastic Punta to Montevideo, where I [...]

Like the Liptons…

I´m leaving Cusco at 8 in the morning, to head off to Santiago, Chile. Spending the day in Lima, as my flight to Chile isn´t until 9 PM. Gets in at 2:30 in the AM. Gotta love Taca, right? Last [...]

Bad Marie…

So…she surfaced. Bad, NYC Marie. BUT….only for a bit.And, then she was gone. Here goes… I decided that since I was going to be in Cusco for a week until I could get on my Inca [...]

Mama Africa …

Since I last left off at the cafe, I was having a hard time adjusting to the altitude.It´s better now, but now it feels like I´m getting a cold. Sniffles and watery eyes. It´s a mild version of [...]

Tienes una Llamada…

Sorry I have been MIA. The Gipsy Cholo posse have adopted me, literally. I don´t have a phone in my room and they call the front desk and the hostess of my hotel comes knocks on my door and goes: [...]

What is my life?

i have some new friends today from my first dive. 8 ppl from Ecuador that areall different ages and have different lives. They´re great, very very nice and havetaken me in. I spent last night in [...]

Ecuador…

Yesterday was great. Getting to Lan airlines, checking in, making myself a little window-aisle-seat-bed on the mostly empty plane. Lemme tell you kids, Lan is one heckuva airline. So spacious. [...]

I Am On My Way!

So…I get to the airport this morning. Bright and early, 5AM. Rearing to go. Check in, play-using my Spanish, acting the part, rocking the Martinez (yes, my dad’s puertoriqueno)… [...]

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